LM317T Voltage Regulator with Pass Transistor

A simple DC to DC converter built using common components. Input is approximately 8-14VDC, output is adjustable between ~21-48+VDC. Efficiency is approximately 73% at full rated load with 48VDC output. UPDATE: A schematic and pictures of a simple PCB design are here: lambertan.no-ip.com



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXulSFItvk0&hl=en

The project is designed to provide low voltage start to induction motors. This is achieved by using star to delta conversion. Star/Delta starters are probably the most common reduced voltage starters in the 50Hz industrial motor world. Star delta is used in an attempt to reduce the start current applied to the motor. Thereafter, full load current is applied to the motor. For more information about this project, visit www.edgefxkits.in Edgefx Technologies provides 100% output guaranteed electrical and electronics live project kits for 3rd & final year engineering students. We provide various types of projects like embedded projects, robotics projects, electrical projects and communication based projects and help to thousands of ECE and EEE students in improving their practical knowledge in electronics. For more details, visit www.edgefxkits.in



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOG3jXS3uWg&hl=en

Description on how to use a volt meter for basic voltage checking. Shows how to check alternator output and checking the alternator under a load. Also some tips on some alternator and electrical problem diagnosis.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wUVdznO-4&hl=en

This WSM HOn3 K-28 has a Tsunami and a TCS FL4 decoder. The new circuit uses a LM317 voltage regulator and by programming the Tsunami bell "ring rate" and matching it to the FL4 motor RPM's set on constant dim and dim rate of 10 the syncronization is pretty good. This works with track voltages 12 to 15v and the bell speed will remain constant if the loco visits other layouts.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCWctZXGsBE&hl=en

Part 1 Click here for part 2: (READ MORE) www.youtube.com www.driverstorer.com DS tests the Harbor Freight 1.5 watt amorphous solar panel- solar battery charger kit. Chicago Electric Power Systems Article link: www.driverstorer.com For use with auto, marine, ATV, and other trickle charge applications Don't forget to hit subscribe! DS briefly runs through a series of current and voltage tests on the Harbor Freight 1.5 amorphous watt solar battery charger kit. The harbor freight amorphous solar battery charger kit includes: *One mountable solar panel with hard plastic bezel measuring 14-3/4" L x 6-1/2" W x 7/8" thick *Detachable vehicle adapter with activity LED (12V) *Documentation Formulas used to calculate the wattage from the solar panel: Variables: V=Voltage I=Current R= Resistance W= Watts V=IR (ohms law) (to double check calculations) W=(I^2) R (reads: (watts = current squared * resistance)) Current measured (100 ohm resistor in series) 25 -- 35 mA Output wattage calculated in overcast skies (100 ohm resistor)= W@ 25mA= 0.0625 (62.5mW) W@ 35mA=0.1225 (122.5mW) W@ 120mA= 1.44 Assuming you reach the advertised max current from the solar panel of 120mA you seem to max out at 1.44 watts theoretically. This is close to the 1.5 watt rating of the solar panel, but slightly less. As a vehicle battery trickle charger, the Harbor Freight 1.5 watt amorphous solar panel- solar battery charger kit will work as advertised, however local conditions will always affect the efficiency ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O43s5A_IGf4&hl=en

boginjr.com A few resistor modification, some desoldering, wiring and an LED voltmeter from eBay and voila, our new supply with overcurrent protection (short circuit proof) is now done. Video includes "heavy duty testin' " with a small peewee two watt 0R58 resistor (to check the maximum current provided by the supply), purposely haven't kept it there for more than a second or two, or else it would burst in flames real quick xD - And say goodbye to your LM317 "lab power supplies" !



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LBsFrbPzb8&hl=en

**Always follow the instructions in your repair manual when doing repair or maintenance work on Outdoor Power Equipment. Manuals can be found at the manufacturers website.** In this video I check the voltage and frequency at the outlets on a portable Briggs & Stratton Generator, and the RPM of the engine. I also change the engine oil. You really should get a repair manual for the generator your working on to see the electrical schematic and get the proper specs for the generator, but in the USA the voltage should be close to 120 or 240 volts depending on the type of outlet, and the frequency should be around 60 hertz. To get 60 hertz on most generators, the engine RPM should be close to 3600 RPM. Every generator can have different specifications, so a repair manual is really important for proper specifications and the electrical schematic is priceless. The engine on this generator uses a splash type oil system, so it doesn't have a oil filter to replace. You simple drain the oil and refill the engine with 32 ounces of fresh oil. It is important to warm up the engine to operating temperature before you replace the oil. Warming up the engine helps the oil flow better, and it causes contaminates in the oil to get suspended in the oil and drain out with the old oil. I always use a single grade oil in the warm season with air cooled engines. Single grade oil holds up better than a multi grade oil under high temperatures. Air cooled engines run at a higher temperature than a ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXETOi8b0UM&hl=en