LM317T Voltage Regulator with Pass Transistor

This is a 60 watt 3.5-40 volt in and 5-40 volt out DC to DC step up converter. I got it off ebay for $15, including shipping. I was thinking of using this to step up the voltage of my slow turning vertical turbine to charge a 12 v battery. It can, of course, be used for other purposes. The output voltage is easily adjustable and the footprint is very small (2"x2")



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv_dyEX-Lsw&hl=en

My new XR2206 function generator. Based on an ELEKTOR circuit diagram from 1977. The XR-2206 is a monolithic function generator integrated circuit. Features: + Square, sine, triangle, sawtooth wave output or pulses. + Frequency range from 10 Hz to around 200 kHz. + Amplitudes from around 0.01 V to 4 V (or more) + Audio output is possible For demonstration a digital storage oscilloscope DSO 062 from JYE-Tech and a speaker were connected to the output. Frequency can be adjusted by a ten turn wirewound precision potentiometer + multiplicator (x1, x10, x100, x1000) + another x2 multplicator. Surprisingly most of the 1970s electrical components are still available. So it is ~ 99% the 1977 model. Only the original voltage regulator had to be replaced by a 7812 . It should be noted that nowadays simple sound cards are better and cheaper function generators. However, I like this old technique. ;-) Elektor kindly gave me the permission to post the links to the original articles from 1977 (German and English language): www.elektor.de/120068 and www.elektor.com/120068



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPtsgFw5Fno&hl=en

Recently I have been thinking about the idea of converting my old Dick Smith Q-1280 oscilloscope I don't use anymore into a video monitor for composite video and NBTV and so have been looking around for schematics to do the job. YouTube user 256byteram kindly provided me with a schematic he made for his video to scope project www.youtube.com so I went to Jaycar bought all necessary parts and constructed the circuit. I then realized I needed a +/-12V power supply and had a 7812 regulator but no 7912 regulator and couldn't be bothered driving to Jaycar so from some site I found an alternate +/-VDC circuit that takes +VDC input, uses a 555 timer to create a low AC voltage and rectifier circuits to create the +/- DC voltage, so I adapted that and inputting a 14VDC power supply I get +/-12.5VDC out to power the video-scope circuit. Anyhow after construction and fixing some of my construction mistakes I hooked up the circuit to my two other oscilloscopes that have X, Y and Z input and fired them up and unfortunately no picture appears but instead I get a funky looking polygon with a raster like display on the inside, the polygon does react to the video input but no picture. Also I am finding when I check the + and - voltage rails I am getting 0 to +/-2V while the circuit is in operation, and when power supply circuit disconnected from video-scope circuit I get the normal +/-12.5VDC. I wondered if there is any shorts, I did check over the circuit and fixed my construction errors ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mh4Eg60dkWo&hl=en

A small Jacob's Ladder, driven by a 555 timer circuit quite similar to the Ainslie clock in all its variations. The 2n3055 transistor, the automotive ignition coil, and the big diode are wired up exactly as the remainder of the Ainslie "heater" circuit. The only real difference is in the choice of timing R and C in the 555 circuit, and the 10-turn pots for precise control of frequency and duty cycle. And yes, in this circuit the battery voltage will actually appear to rise as the circuit runs. For example the no-load voltage when I started was 12.6, and when I finished this demo it was up to 12.8. So it must be a massively overunity Jacob's ladder!! The circuit diagram jpg may be downloaded from www.mediafire.com



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNL8QTS0sM0&hl=en

This radio could be a really magnificent performer but it's let down slightly by distorted RX audio on SSB and it has a small frequency error of about 150Hz. The noise blanker performance is the very best I have ever come across and the receive sensitivity is superb. It has a far greater signal to noise ratio, on FM, than any of my other radios. AM receive is nothing short or spectacular and FM isn't far behind. For £145 brand new in the box, you have a 50W SSB radio with variable power on all modes, thanks to its two IRF520 output devices. 15W carrier on AM, swinging up to around 45W on a whistle. A multitude of menus plus PC programming makes this a very versatile radio indeed. Great for 10 and 11 Metres or you can program it to do both. Whether or not these radios will stand the test of time has yet to be seen. The lead free ROHS compliant solder, used during the manufacture of these radios, is a serious cause for concern as it seems to be more prone to giving dry solder joints. The quality of the components seems to be at least on a par with the CB radios of old, if not better. There are a few nice touches, such as the presence of a crystal filter in the first intermediate frequency stage when using AM or FM. The PA transistors have a more than adequate heat sink but the AM/FM TX voltage regulator relies on the main chassis for its heat dissipation. I look forward to seeing Simon Parker's review of the V5.1 or V6? when it is released by the factory. This is my final ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sAmOUTuvnY&hl=en

rebuilderinabox.com - Go here to help locate the proper rebuild kit and the rest of this video for your vehicle.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaQqJRAZuEI&hl=en

www.microchip.com This reference design provides an easy method to evaluate the power, and features of SMPS dsPIC® Digital Signal Controllers for high wattage AC - DC conversion application. Discover the many benefits of digital power control implementation in this reference design. The SMPS AC - DC Reference Design unit works with universal input voltage range, and produces multiple DC outputs. The design is based on a modular structure, which features three major power stages; the input stage, intermediate stage and the third stage, a Point of Load. The input stage is a PFC Boost Converter, the intermediate stage is a Phase-Shifted Zero Voltage Transition (ZVT) Converter, which includes ZVT Full Bridge Converter and Synchronous Rectification, and the third stage is Single-phase and Multi-phase Buck Converters. This reference design uses two dsPIC33F16GS504 devices; one used for the PFC Boost Converter and ZVT Full Bridge Converter, while the other dsPIC® DSC is used for Single-phase and Multi-phase Buck Converters.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snAOXUSACOU&hl=en

[no high voltage today] Video by viewer request. Lm386 datasheet: www.alldatasheet.com The song is: Infected Mushroom semi nice Comment, rate and subscribe! FAQ: Q: The sound s0xx0rz, fix it! A: Can't, since there are barely any parts. Q: How do I add volume control? A: Either in series with the speaker (volume) or between pin 1 and pin 8 (gain) Q: Why is there a 7805? A: To conserve power, you can go without it if you feel like it. EDIT: Too many of the comments are goddamn retarded, so I will no longer reply. Read the other comments, your question is probably answered already.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5NjcZkJtFM&hl=en

A list of solar panels and chargers can be found here: astore.amazon.com MPPT vs PWM Solar charger performance / MPPT Operation / How does MPPT work / What is MPPT There is a follow-up to this video that covers some questions raised about the amps. MPPT vs PWM Solar Charger - Follow-up In this video I switch between an MPPT and PWM solar charger to show how much power (Watts) can be "lost". This is due to the voltage being pulled down to the battery voltage by the PWM charger. The MPPT controller uses / tracks the best voltage output the solar panel can provide to ensure maximum power output. In this case I have two 50 watt panels connected in parallel that can be switched between the MPPT and PWM charger. Together they are producing about 3 amps at 19.49 volts; about 58 watts (MPPT controller). When I switch to the PWM controller the voltage drops to the battery voltage being charged, 12.2 volts at 3.3 amps; about 40 watts. A loss of 18 Watts!! That means a 31% gain in power using an MPPT controller. The MPPT still provides the battery with about 12-14 volts required for charging but with more amps. The gains will not always be that big; as the battery charge voltage gets higher, the gains are less. The MPPT will continually track the optimum voltage; as light and temperature change at the solar panel, so will the Maximum Power Point. Here is an excellent link to a DIY project and further MPPT explanation: www.timnolan.com



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpL4RR0_QyM&hl=en

with Henry Zhang, Applications Engineering Manager - Power Products video.linear.com Many applications such as battery-powered supply have a wide input voltage that can be lower or higher than the regulated output voltage. The conventional solutions, such as flyback, Sepic or a 2-stage supply are usually complicated and inefficient.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIYyGeLl128&hl=en

Click the links below to see the other most recent vids uploaded on this channel. www.youtube.com YAMAHA R1 and a SUPER Moto Walk Around Video www.youtube.com Damn! A WWII German motorcycle? www.youtube.com BMW S1000 RR Riders, Spotted. www.youtube.com The best starter bike for beginners. www.youtube.com Kawasaki Superbikes' Voltage Regulator recall



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdaDypW2l5o&hl=en

this board is a dedicated RS232 DTE, controllable via network/internet. The main controller IC had burnt out due to too high voltage for the 3.3v regulator. Note the shorted IC is already desoldered and pads are clean.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NoattCAroME&hl=en

Built this amp 20 years ago for my little Ford Tempo . It got a switching power supply that can handle up to 250 A input current if needed . Main control IC is SG 3524 switching regulator that is set to keep voltage at + and -45 V even if car battery goes down to 11V . There are 5 mosfets per side each rated 50 Amps ( 250 A ). Primary of ferrite transformer ( 2 toroids together ) got 5 heavy wire coils , 10 turns each with center tap that's connected to + 12 V. Secondary coil is connected to 16 A fast rectifier , choke and finally 15000 uF caps that feed the amplifiers . There are two power amplifiers ( analog not class D , didn't know much about class D at the time ) , small signal transistors were rated 140 volts , output transistors ( TIP 35 C / TIP 36 C ) are 100 V . I had to connect them in parallel to handle all the output current . I also built a circuit to feed both amps , one amp gets a strait input while other one gets it inverted ... thats how bridged amps work . ps. Check schematic for this in my other video : Schematic for Home Made Car Stereo



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3qLoHJ7Pzo&hl=en

Just a short project to fill some time. The LM317 voltage regulator used as an amplifier. The thing was horribly inefficient, running at about a half of an amp. Surprisingly, it took 32 volts with the heat sink and didn't burn up, so I took the heat sink of to see what would happen. I've estimated it was *trying* to dissipate about 14 watts!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wEYdEEx178&hl=en

This video demonstrates how the current output by a 2-wire transmitter is a function of the process measurement and not electrical parameters such as supply voltage or loop resistance.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey_fCuV4xt8&hl=en

After making the videos for my electronics projects (except for guitar amps which I have yet to do), I decided to make one about the solid-state projects I used to build. Many of these date to about 10 years ago or earlier. Some of them are newer, and some are not completed as you can see. I got into tubes in 2003 and have building with them ever since, but before this I did exclusively solid-state work. (Before solid state I built electrical projects, such as ones with light bulbs, switches, and outlets). These solid-state projects represent a lot of my history in electronics work. While I have not demonstrated any of them, many of them do work...if I can remember how to hook them up! If you have any questions about what you see here, I'll try to answer you with what I remember about these projects.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajdqt2b4iPw&hl=en

rebuilderinabox.com - Go here to help locate the proper rebuild kit and the rest of this video for your vehicle.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpaIdNyT87g&hl=en

Sine Wave Inverter (SMPS) Voltage PID Controller using PIC



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=493WxmETyLk&hl=en

The turbine will be placed on my roof in a couple of month for maximum output... PS the only thing left needed is a 1.5 kw inverter connected to my main. (light only)



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfloAqEEIQI&hl=en

You won't find too many of these running around. A 1968 Porsche 911 L series. This is a numbered car. Number 89 of 134. It comes with the stock Flat 6 engine and 5-speed manual transmission. Features include AM/FM/Cassette radio, seat belts, radial tires, vinyl interior, and targa top. The car has had a full top end engine rebuild, the shift linkage was repaired, the pedal assembly was repaired, replaced and repaired front suspension arms, strut tubes, cross member, and tie rod assembly on both sides. New alternator, voltage regulator, and windshield wiper motor. The front seats have been repaired and re-stuffed along with the rest of the interior getting redone. New front head lamps on both sides. The car was sanded down to bare metal and repainted the original color. New driver side door alignment and lock, new battery, air filter, oil filter, and recent oil change. The owner installed new seat belts, roll bar seal rubber, and installed new floor panels. Installed new chrome tail pipe tips, new heater boxes and valves. Repaired the door panels. New rear shocks and drop-link assembly. New door speakers for the radio as well. The owner has a Cerftificate of Authenticity for the car as well stating it is indeed number 89 of 134. The car comes with full title history documentation dating back to the first owner, original hand book, and receipts for the work done. This is a very rare Porsche. Please, call us at 618-271-3000 for more information.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLvsk_02cJE&hl=en

www.apdty.com Click the above link to find the window motor regulator for your vehicle. A Brief Explanation From A Pro On The Different Problems That Can occur With A Power Window.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vePC0vaZu0M&hl=en

A DIY multi-voltage power supply I built the other week. Standard +/- 12, 9, and 5 but with a variable output for mimicking a single AA, or two in series. Not current limited though, that seemed too far for a first try. It might be worth altering the +9V though so it can also mimic a partially drained battery, to confirm performance in things like guitar effects pedals. If I was doing it again, I'd use a transformer with higher current supply, and make two +/- outputs, both variable, using the LM317 regulator instead. That would cover pretty much everything, and be simpler to build. Oh well :) !



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE29WX6PYQM&hl=en

installing a new voltage regulator and asking advice from you cub guys about my busted PTO. should i buy missing parts and rebuild PTO or buy an entire new PTO assembly . it will see some action . it runs the front end loaders hyd . pump. thanks



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmxxtOYlfhw&hl=en

Lecture Series on Analog ICs by Prof. K.Radhakrishna Rao , Department of Electrical Engineering,IITMadras. For more details on NPTEL visit nptel.iitm.ac.in



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rjc2eejVHVY&hl=en

BMW E38/E39 Cluster voltage and Alternator test



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEATHFRjXsg&hl=en